Riga, May 1, 2012

As could be expected when loaded up with luggage the announcement came across 'Apologies for the inconvenience. Please exercise care. The escalators are not working..' So there was nothing else to do, other than to lug my baggage down the stairs to begin the new adventure. I catch the Stansted express, entertained by an Irish family. The young daughter asks her father about where the queen lives, who wittily replies, 'she lives in a few places, Buckingham Palace, Windsor Castle...she's like a stray cat'.

Usually on Ryanair I don't book seats but as 1A was available I thought I'd indulge myself, and booked, what would be first class Ryanair, prime viewing, prime leg room and I would be first off the plane.

We flew into Riga and behind us was an exquisite sunset. Alighting from the plane, the stop off at customs was relatively short, and I located the relative who had kindly offered to pick me up. Immediately my Latvian was put to the test, as it would be for the next 7 days, and fortunately there were no gaps in my understanding, though my sentence structure and word endings left a bit to be desired.

Off we drove to the centre of the old city, Vecriga (Old Riga).We had barely arrived there and a blue light flashed behind us...we had been driving on a road reserved for cyclists. Fortunately no fine ensued. We reached the destination, unusually named, Teddy Bear Hostel, which was acessed from a small, very dark courtyard.

Teddy Bear Hostel- artwork of teddybears everywhere!

After ringing a number of bells a voice replied and the door opened. I started to climb, and climb, and climb the very steep, winding staircase....with the luggage feeling heavier and heavier, until finally I arrived at the fourth floor.

The receptionist was very friendly and soon I was in the 4 bunk room, chatting with a young woman from Amsterdam, an English lecturer there. We were the only occupants and in the morning she had left and in her place was Polish Kasha, a lawyer, who was the only other person in the room for the next few nights, apart from a young Turkish man who arrived, left his suitcase there, and only returned to pick it up at 5 am the following morning...an expensive way of storing it overnight!

Riga May 2

 

 

My first task is to try to make contact with some family friends and relatives, but alas the Latvian exchange won't connect my British phone...so I need to buy my second phone. This is all duly set up and I make a few calls.

Buildings in Old Riga

It seems fitting that today, my father's birthday, I will be exploring the city where he grew up. Walking through the narrow, cobblestone streets there are lots of historic buildings to take in.

Couldn't resist...again!

The main form of transport is the bicycle, as on the whole cars aren't allowed to travel through this area. Beyond Vecriga is the grand National Opera House,

the Freedom Monument and the canal and surrounding parkland,

which has been beautifully landscaped and home to many sculptures.

One of the small bridges is bedecked with padlocks, seemingly placed there by lovers to strengthen their bond, or so I assume.

 A little further on are two boats, and one of them catches my eye.

Riga May 3

More time to explore and I find myself at the huge marketplace. The first stall I approach I see some forest berries (dzērvenes) and I think they look worth trying so I buy 100 grams...and to my dismay they are sour and bitter. Turns out they are cranberries, and I'm advised by and old woman at a honey stall that the best way to eat them is to press out the juice, and combine this with honey and garlic as a morning tonic! I decide that though the berries are totally unpalatable in their raw state, that their vitamin C content alone means that I should persevere, and consume them over time...

The marketplace is bright with an abundance of plant stalls, fruit and vegetables and assorted stalls.

Inside the hangar market are all kinds of products on offer including meat, fish, cheese and honey. I buy some honey and have a piece of fish for lunch.


The mobile rings. I am to go to Vecpiebalga the following day by bus with a young girl living in Riga, where I will be picked up by some family friends.


In the evening I wear a dress for the first time, to see a play at the National Theatre. The theatre has been beautifully restored and is well-attended. We have seats to the side in a 'box' so there's a good view of both the stage and the audience. The play is modern, designed to shock. The main actor, the mother, lives on a cocktail of pills and is loud and obnoxious; her husband is an alcoholic, who commits suicide. Through the course of the play there is relentless smoking (including marijuana by the 14 year old), marriage breakdowns, family feuds...The intervals are an interesting experience. The custom is for people to 'promenade' so the time is spent walking around the outside auditorium, round and round, apparently a custom that has always been practised, and a sensible one at that, to relieve the sitting. I am pleased that I understand all the Latvian in the play. I would need to stay for 6 months, however, to speak with the same proficiency.

I return to the hostel and talk with Kasha, who has spent the day at Jurmala (a beach resort area).

Riga May 4

I rise relatively early to meet my contact person at 8am, to make our way to the bus. There's time for a quick coffee at the bus station and we're soon on our way. It's great to have the opportunity to travel with someone who knows the area and is able to answer my many questions. My Latvian is improving. Luckily we secured the last two seats as there are many on the bus standing, and may need to for over two hours.

We are met at the bus stop, and head around this part of Latvia, looking at the countryside and visiting historic sites.

We also visit a local potter who explains how his kiln works. We arrive back at home for lunch

and then it's time to head back to Riga, this time by train from Cēsis. I'm struck by the volume of abandoned houses in the countryside. It seems that many of the rural areas are being left as people go in search of work in the city.

Riga May 5

The arrangement for the day is to walk around the streets to see lots of the Art Nouveau architecture with two family friends. We meet and our first stop is a cafe for coffee and apple cake, and we send some time there catching up on what's going on in one another's lives. We head off, past the Laima Clock,

and the Brivibas Piemineklis (Freedom Monument) which has a guard of honour. As it has been a public holiday to commemorate freedom the previous day, at the base of the monument is a floral wreath of the map of Latvia.

We walk the streets. The Art Nouveau buildings have either been or are being restored. This area is referred to as 'Klusais Rajons' (the Quiet Area) where people retire to, as it is quiet, beautiful and close to the city. It is also home to many of the foreign embassies.

Our walk is followed by a short rest on a park bench, then lunch at the Lido. I can't resist choosing sauerkraut and pork, and sampling the Latvian style, rye bread garlic bread. All scrumptious!

From here I'm picked up by a relative, and we visit an historic cemetery and drive around an area which has grand, family-sized houses.

Bauska May 6

I'm picked up and we head off to the area where my mother lived. It's an emotional day, visiting cemeteries where my great and great grandparents are buried, seeing the house where my mother lived and meeting up with more relatives for lunch.

We also go to see a splendid old palace, Rundāles Pils, which has a magnificent French style baroque garden, and the palace itself has been painstakingly restored.

We are met by a family friend who is one if the head gardeners, and shown around the garden which is ablaze with colourful tulips and daffodils.

Following this we are treated to a delicious lunch, then head back to Riga 

Riga May 7

On my last day I'd hoped to visit the Sports Museum which is just around the corner from where I am staying, but alas it is closed. I'll have to go there when I return! I buy some amber jewellery and Laima sweets and chocolate. In the evening I'm treated to a meal at a Latvian style restaurant (salmon and sauerkraut). I return to the hostel to pack, ready to leave the following morning.

It has been a moving and rewarding experience meeting friends and relatives,  seeing many sights including where my parents grew up and learning about my ancestors.